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Thread Title:

8.2L Detroit Diesel (Turbo) Won't Start

Created On Saturday March 06, 2010 20:25

MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Saturday March 06, 2010 20:25

Hi all, I'm new to this site.

I have a Bus with an 8.2L Detroit Turbo diesel and its not wanting to start. It had been sitting for a couple weeks. When I first started it it ran for a couple minutes and died. Then it would not start back up.

It cranks fine, but it won't quite start. I'm guessing it is fuel supply related and plan on first swapping fuel filters.

Does any one know any common problems with these that might cause this or can anyone recommend things to check in general? I'm not too familiar with troubleshooting diesels.

Thanks!

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GoneFishen

Posts: 1325
Joined: Jan 2007

Saturday March 06, 2010 23:51

Since I have worked on a few I would really suggest that you repower the thing. But if it won't start #1 is to see if the solenoid clicks on top of the governor. This solenoid MUST move inwards to allow the injector racks to move into a fuel posistion. Often times they short out and need replacement. $$$ this time to replace it. I heard around $200. If you are not sure remove it with an allen wrench and try starting. Warning: this is usually the sole means of stopping the engine. You need to place a set of vicegrips on the shutoff shaft, the one that most likely does not have anything on top of it. Look closely and move the throttle pedal. The shutoff pole is the one that does not move when moving the foot pedal. If removal of the shutoff solenoid still does not allow starting remove the easiest rocker cover and make sure that the injector racks move FREELY back and forth. The hate2 engine racks move opposite of the old 2 cycle engine racks but they do the same thing.

-------------------------
DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also.
1995 F250, 191k mi.
Lost Wages, Nv

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MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Sunday March 07, 2010 01:50
Thanks, for the response. What do you mean repower the thing? Just disconnect battery and reconnect? Do you know where the governor is located on them? So if the shutoff solenoid goes bad it won't start, and by removing it the motor will start but will continue running unless manually shut off with the shut off shaft? What could cause the injector racks to bind? Thanks Again.

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GoneFishen

Posts: 1325
Joined: Jan 2007

Sunday March 07, 2010 09:58

The hate2 engine no longer is being made. They quit making them 12 years ago. That engine block had 2 MAJOR problems so no-one wanted it. By repower try a nice Cummins or a Caterpillar. Cost is up there but way better than an engine someone 'fixed' for you. Parts cost $$$ nowdaays.
The 'run' solenoid is on top of the engine just behind the thermostat housing. It is about 6" ling [blue or silver] and about 2" in diameter. It has 2 wires coming from it [+ and -]. If it goes out the 'pull piston inside does not allow the governor to allow the injector racks to travel to a run posistion. In other words it stays in the stop posistion. We just remove it and put vice grips there to allow for a safty so we can ry to start the engine. The rocker covers are generally a PITA to remove so we cheat to find the problem fast. If removing the solenoid does not work I would suggest removal of the 1 rocker cover to look at the injector racks and check their travel. Injectors seize because of contamination. [dirt, and mostly water and poor grade diesel fuel]
Yes on removal of the solenoid and it continue's to run. The solenoid is a driver convience, we used to use pull cables years ago on the old 2 cycle mechanical governors. Nowdays we use electronic's as a shutoff.

-------------------------
DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also.
1995 F250, 191k mi.
Lost Wages, Nv

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MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Sunday March 07, 2010 23:08

The solenoid does click upon turning the key, so I'm guessing it is still operable.

When I use a bit of starting fluid I can get it to run for a second or two. So I'm fairly convinced it's just a fuel supply issue.

I change the fuel filter(kinda guessing it wouldn't work,but I had a new one already) it didn't help.

When I crank it I know it's firing and it almost wants to start. Seeing as how it is firing I'm guessing it has to be getting some fuel, which would confirm that the solenoid is good.

Any other input would be appreciated.

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MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Monday March 08, 2010 20:22
1) Is there no central injector pump on these motors? 2) Does anyone know the procedure for priming the lines on these?

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GoneFishen

Posts: 1325
Joined: Jan 2007

Tuesday March 09, 2010 20:34

The fuel pump is under the top aircleaner in the 'valley' behind the governor. The governor drives the fuel pump. If you run out of fuel these are a pita because the fuel system plugs are hard to get to. You cannot put any pressure greater than 15 psi to the fuel pump because it will blow out the oil'fuel seal on the pump. Hint remove the return hose and plug off the hose that goes to the tank. Use a shop rag and an air nozzle to put air into the fuel tank and have someone else start the engine. When it gets running install the fuel hose back to the fitting and all is well. Pressure wash the fuel spill from the engine/frame.

-------------------------
DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also.
1995 F250, 191k mi.
Lost Wages, Nv

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MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Wednesday March 10, 2010 09:42

The other day I removed the return line from that manifold thing bolted to the engine, no fuel there, double checked main input, no fuel there. So no fuel to motor, must have been firing on residual fuel previously.

I hooked a hose and funnel to the main input line and poured in diesel, it took maybe a have gallon running through until it would fire up.

Then I was confused why it was using fuel at such a high rate, but then I realized most was just returning to tank, lol.

So I think my low pressure fuel pump is bad. Should it be located in the tank or near the engine? And will it be a mechanical or electrical pump?

Thanks Again.

BTW this is on a school bus.

Edited: Wednesday March 10, 2010 at 10:07 by MisterSowinski

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GoneFishen

Posts: 1325
Joined: Jan 2007

Wednesday March 10, 2010 20:00

The fuel is returned to the fuel tank at .1.1 g/m at engine rpm of 1200 and above. The fuel pressure AFTER the S filter should be about 15 idle and 65 at NL speed. the fuel pump is where I said it is, beneath the aircleaner on top of the engine between the 2 cylinder heads in the valley of the engine. It is driven by the engine governor.

-------------------------
DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also.
1995 F250, 191k mi.
Lost Wages, Nv

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MisterSowinski

Posts: 11
Joined: Mar 2010

Wednesday March 10, 2010 22:42
Ya, I know you said the injector pump was there, but I thought there was a low pressure pusher pump. Turns out the lines un-primed themselves (small leak somewhere I guess). I have the problem sorted, thanks.

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