DieselTalk

DieselEngineTrader's FREE Diesel Engine Forums

new topic search Categories login View GM Diesel Engines

CATEGORY LISTINGS > GM DIESEL > GM 6.2L Diesel (White Smoke) [ REFRESH ]
Thread Title:

GM 6.2L Diesel (White Smoke)


Created On Friday July 05, 2002 20:52 Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum

leia2k
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 3
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Friday July 05, 2002 20:52 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
Hi,

I have a 6.2L GM diesel and there doesn't appear to be a engine specific zone for gm diesels so I'll post this here... the engine is non turbo its got about 340KM on it and I have no clue the last time it was rebuilt if ever.. the engine runs good and strong and doesn't miss, pulls hard and works perfect... except for when its cold and you start wit... the engine gives off a huge ploom of white smoke then the smoke slows to a small amount, it also idles ruff and even stalls out unless I keep the pedal down to keep its revs up once it warms up all the problems go away. I know the fast idle solenoid thing is royaly screwed and thats why I have to rev it or it will stall that I can fix its the white smoke the scares me... also whats the best kind of oil to use in an engine like this? since the engine is mechanical which I love (hates engine computers and overly complex crap) I want to use it in my project truck because its easy to repair in the field. thanks for any help you guys can give me!

Sincerly

Ms. Leia Fortin

-------------------------
--------- --- -- -
If its not bigger than a hummer then get outta my way!

ex G30 cubevan converted to full sized duellie layout, body removed, frame enlarged has original 6.2L GM Diesel Longblock V8 Mechanical fuel system mated to a THM400. A work in progress.
--------- --- -- -
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

badges65
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Tuesday July 09, 2002 02:07 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
according to the book "white smoke is considered normal when the vehicle is first started but should stop when the vehicle warms up..
"
i have a 6.2 in my boat and get this when i first start up but soon dissapears..
the ruff idle is
air in the fuel system -- nozzles opening pressure -- nozzele tip leakage -- injection pump output -- injector pump low speed governor sensitivity --
you need to check the injectors and pump if it has done some hours!!
don


-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

leia2k
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 3
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Wednesday July 17, 2002 11:26 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
Thanks for the help! And thanks for the new section I dont feel so left out nbow tongue

How would I check the engine for the symptoms you mentioned badges65?

Sincerly,

Leia

-------------------------
--------- --- -- -
If its not bigger than a hummer then get outta my way!

ex G30 cubevan converted to full sized duellie layout, body removed, frame enlarged has original 6.2L GM Diesel Longblock V8 Mechanical fuel system mated to a THM400. A work in progress.
--------- --- -- -
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

badges65
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Wednesday July 17, 2002 18:30 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
Hi Leia,
air in the fuel .. put a section clear plastic hose in the return line from the injector pump and see if there is a continual flow of bubbles usually a few at start up but should be none on running..
if you can get idle fixed would not worry too much about others as all require removal from engine and getting checked at shop- Costs!!
don

-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

leia2k
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 3
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Thursday July 18, 2002 20:10 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
considering Im running the truck from a clear fuel container at the moment I dont need to do the hose thing... there isn't any bubbles comming from the ruturn line during normal running only a couple at startup... is there any cleaning solution I could add besides the regular additives that may possibly clear up the system? could it be my pumps timing? when I drive around the neigborhood and back say a 20min drive it uses up 4L of fuel which to me is very bad so the engine is getting way to much fuel... Ive rebuilt several gas engines so Im not affraid to do the woprk myself I just need to know were to look... Im thinking it might be some stuck injectors... any other Ideas please?

thanks,

Leia


-------------------------
--------- --- -- -
If its not bigger than a hummer then get outta my way!

ex G30 cubevan converted to full sized duellie layout, body removed, frame enlarged has original 6.2L GM Diesel Longblock V8 Mechanical fuel system mated to a THM400. A work in progress.
--------- --- -- -
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

badges65
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Note Friday July 19, 2002 01:16 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
Hi Leia,
well the first thing to do is to check the pump timing, have posted a pic at my site http://invertedvboats.bravepages.com/ click on Detroit Diesel Help and have a look..
Check to see there are no restrictions in the return fuel line..
then i would pull the glow plugs and see they are all working ok be carefull some of them are 6 (SIX) Volts..
You could loosen the pipes at the injector and see if fuel is pumping there on all of them (one at a time)
then pull the injectors and take to shop to get tested ..
hope this helps a bit..
don

-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

thunderroaddrayage
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 14
Joined: Sep 2002

Note Monday September 02, 2002 15:30 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
Hi leia,Thought I'd throw my two cents in.First,the 6.2 is a good little engine with lots of performance potential.Dont give up on it and dont listen to the nay sayers.G.M. didnt stop using this engine because there was anything wrong with it.They developed the 6.5 to replace it because they thought it would be better/cheaper than renewing their contract with detroit diesel.Thats right,youre 6.2 is a baby detroit.Gale Banks,amoung others,makes some excellent performance parts for the 6.2,including a turbo kit that fits like a glove,is easy to install youreself,and completly changes its personality.He has a website,check it out.He also used to offer a rebuilding service for injecters and pumps.He didnt advertise it in his catalog,but he did do it right there in house.It would be worth a phone call to find out.Buying new fuel system parts thrue G.M. can be pretty pricey.Having a qaulity shop rebuild youre own parts is much cheaper and you know youre getting a quality,hand checked part,not just some mass produced part out of a box.Also,If youre the hands on type,buy a full service/repair manual.The G.M. dealership manual is nice,but expensive.You can get by as well with a chiltons or moter brand manual.Buy the one that specifically covers just the G.M. diesels,the 6.2 and 6.5.You'll probably have to order it,but it covers more than the universal manuals.One more thing about gale banks before we get to youre problems.When the 6.2 first came out he developed his sidewinder turbo kit for it and G.M. offered it thrue the factorey parts catalog as a dealer installed option on new pickups.Magazine test done when the 6.5 turbo first came out showed that a banks equipted 6.2 could kick the snot out a factorey turboed 6.5.Now,youre white smoke when the engine is cold is pretty normal.Here in maine there are a lot of 6.2's still on the road and I cant remember ever seing one that didnt give at least a haze of white smoke.I had a 1982 G.M.C. service truck with a 6.2 that would give white smoke until the temperature gauge would start to move.A little white smoke is normal,especialy with what youre engine has for mileage.If you are getting alot of white smoke when its cold,and alot of black smoke when its warm,then you have a problem with youre fuel circuit.The pump could be worn and giving excesive volume,youre injecter nozzles could be worn or cracked and could be dribbling or misfiring.The timing could be off on youre pump due to wear,or because the previos owner removed it then misinstalled it.Since you say it gives a huge cloud when you first start it,I would guess one or more tips are bad and are puddling fuel into the cylinders when the engine is off.This would also be a likely culprit for youre excessive fuel consumption.These engines arent hard to work on,but people make mistakes all the time.Everyone does.If you get a good manual,and you have good reading and comprehension skills,you shouldnt have any problem removing youre pump and injecters,then reinstalling them and adjusting the valves.Also,replace or rebuild youre idle solenoid.These engines require a warm up period just like a big diesel.If you want youres to live a long life,plan to start it 5 minutes before you leave youre house.Dont even think of dropping it in gear until the needle on the temperature gauge has hit the first mark.The clearances on the bearings and rings is alot different than a gas engine.If you just jump in,turn the key,and take off,youll be shaving off metal and life off the engine.A warm up is part of the cost of owning a diesel pickup.Also,always use youre glow plugs to start the engine.Avoid using either in youre engine.Either is one of the best degreasers going.If the glow plugs dont work,fix them.If you must use a starting aid,then remove the air filter element and use WD-40.It will start a diesel as well as either,but wont hurt it.As far as oil goes,I would recomend mobil delvac 1300.This is a 15/40 W truck oil.Its what detroit diesel recomends in theyre warante guidlines for their series 60 engines.Ive had good results using it in big and small diesels.It has a high total base number with a very good detergent package and is formulated to absorb high qauntities of blow by soot.This is important to any older diesel,but its especialy important to a high mileage non turbo engine like youres.I'd recomend a wix gold filter.You can get them at napa nationwide.If you dont have a napa in youre area you should still be able to find someone who carries wix. They are a big name.As far as fuel additives go,I've tried alot of them over the years,but now I'll only use one.Lucas.They are a companey that only makes oils and additives.Their fuel additive is the only one that you can actually feel as soon as you put it in.They are availible at most truck stops or thrue napa.They also have a web site.I hope this has helped answer some of youre questions.Project trucks are fun,when they arent driving you nuts.If I can answer anything else,feel free to e-mail me,thunderdrayage@aol.com
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

LeesBees
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 2
Joined: Oct 2002

Note Saturday October 05, 2002 15:08 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
I have an 83 GMC with a 6.2 that I got a few months ago. It does simmilar to what is described above. It starts up nicely, no smoke or nothing (mild part of California - 40 degrees F. is cold, heh heh) It runs fine until the cold advance is turned off on the injector pump, and then it generates a LOT of white smoke, and will not go away unless the engine gets a lot hotter from driving. It also gets around 6 miles per gallon. It should be getting 20, not 6. I have a feeling that the timming is too retarded, but the problem is that the alignment marks (engraved line on mine) on the pump/cover are in the retarded position, and it is also as far as it will rotate to make it more advanced! I do not get that at all unless there is the wrong pump on it. The three grooves that the pump `rotates' on to adjust the timing are not long enough to even make the timing lines line-up. The smoke starts up exactly when the cold advance is turned off, which happens a few min. after starting it up. I also have no smoke at all during that first few min. Any of you out there have any clues to why the pump timing marks are like this? The cover's mark is right in the top center, and the furthest that the pump's mark will come to it is about 1/4 inch to the right of it.
Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

BEDFORDMAN
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 15
Joined: Oct 2002

Note Sunday October 06, 2002 15:27 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
I have no personal experience on GM 6.2 V8's(there aren't that many around in UK),but here are my thoughts on this.
If the injector pump timing is out of range it is possible that the main timing gear has fretted on its keyway,or the key was pushed out on assembly and the gear has subsequently moved.Also look for wear on the splined shaft between pump and drive housing(if fitted)and check that torsion rod is in place,if one should be there.

Andrew.

Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
Diesel Talk Forum

Uselessdog
Diesel Talk Forum
Posts: 2
Joined: Oct 2002

Note Thursday October 17, 2002 13:43 View thread in raw text format
Diesel Talk
The simptoms that you described would lead me to beleive that you have one or more
glow plugs that are not functioning. To test them simply connect the ground clip of a test
light to the battery positive cable, and with the wires removed from the glow plugs,
contact each glow plug terminal. The light should light each time. The service manual
has specifacations for using an ohm meter. The test light method is faster and just as
reliable. I don't know where you are located so I don't know about parts availability and
prices there. I assume you are not in the US since you don't measure fuel in gallons. First
thing, what year is the engine and the vehicle? Before getting too involved with a 6.2
that is important to know. There are several different versions of that engine. Those that
were made before 1986 are not worth messing with. You mentioned it has high milage
so I assume it is one of the later ones. You said the engine was in the van so it should
be the (G) style. If it is like the US versions it may or may not have an EGR valve. If it does
it is a light duty (under 8600 lb. GVW). Since the van was a high cube to start with it
probably is the heavier 150 hp version. The fuel injectors are different if the engine is
used in the G (van) rather than the C or K (conventional 2 or 4 wheel drive) unless it is
1988-1991 when there were also R and V (old body style 2 or 4 wheel drive and C and K
new body style 2 and 4 wheel drive). Confused yet? The whole point is to be sure what
you are working with. Most parts will interchange but not always with good results. The
first thing is to check the glow plugs as I said before. There are several different ones out
there but I will give you the benifit of experience of maintaining a fleet 280 of these for 10
years. When you change glow plugs always change them in sets and always spend the
extra money for AC brand. The part # is 9G. Always replace the glow plug controller at the
same time. I know it seems expensive but beleive me it is worth it. There is a
switch/sender called an "Inhibit Switch" that is connectet to the glow plug controller and
make it determine the length of the primary glow cycle and the number and duration of
the secondary glow cycles. The switch may be located at the back of the right head just
behind the last port on the intake side, or on the front of the right head in front of the
water port, or in some cases on the water manifold next to the thermostat but it is only
there on water manifolds that have two senders there. The inhibit switch must work for
the starting aid system to work properly. If you need one and the parts person doesn't
seem to know where to look for it in the parts book, here's a tip. It and the glow plug
controller are on the same page as the glow plugs. The inhibit switch is the last item in
the chart/group and is simply called a switch and appears nowhere in any index in the
book. That tip can save you a lot of time and wrong parts. By the way that is also what
controls you cold idle solinoid. The switch is closed below 105 degrees F.
The 6.2 is indirect injected so it needs heat. With this engine as with all indirect injected
diesel engines with glow plugs never, never, never introduce any combustable into the
intake air stream. I know plenty of people who do and I have done plenty of very
expensive repairs and rebuilds on there engines. The disks that form the bottom of the
precombustion chambers in the heads are very hard but very subject to cracking and
breaking if subject to sudden shock such a dropping or sever detonation. In severe
cases the heads can be cracked and in the worst case the center main bearing web
in the block ( the weakest part of the block ) can crack and the crankshaft exits out the
bottom in two peices. I have seen this several times. One of the other replies mentioned
the injectors. As noted before they are different for the van. They are shorter for clearence
and the injection lines are different. The injectors were a real peice of work! The test
specs for them are any pattern other than a solid stream is acceptable. The cracking
pressure has such a wide range that it is of little value. The allowable leakage rate is
which is usually 0 for most is if memory serves me 6 drops/min. at 60psi static pressure.
All of the information is in the Unit Repair Volume of the service manual. I have some
copies so if you need any specs I can get them for you. These are 1989 which is pretty
much the same from 1986 to the end of the run. The injectors are not expensive as
rebuilt exchanges or to have done at least around here. They are Stanadyne as is the
pump. The pumps develop leaks arount the timing advance cam plunger and around the
throttle shaft. It would have to be pretty bad to affect fuel mileage but will affect starting.
You said you only get a couple of air bubbles on start-up so not a problem. The white
smoke is really a fog of unburned fuel caused by not enough heat due to a cold engine
and that is why it goes away after warm-up. If you have any specific information requests
from the service manual e-mail me at Uselessdog01@aol.com. Sounds like you have an
interesting project going.


Diesel Talk Forum
Reply Diesel Talk Forum Quote Diesel Talk Top Diesel Talk Forum Bottom Diesel Talk
Diesel Talk Forum
CATEGORY LISTINGS > GM DIESEL [ REFRESH ]
KJ SERVICES LTD.
KJ SERVICES LTD.
Luoyang Diron Parts Trading Co.,Ltd
IESC CORP.
Young & Sons Inc.
Diesel Sales
Advertize on Diesel Engine Trader

Customer Testimonials

Newsletter

Subscribe to our mailing list to get all the latest DET news.as well as daily or weekly notifications of new engines and spare parts listings.

'We've sold 7 engines in 4 months through DieselEngineTrader.com - one to Utah, three to South Dakota, one to New York, one to Kansas and one locally in Wisconsin! I also advertise in other publications but DieselEngineTrader.com gets the best results and at a great price too! I like the way that my engines are shown at the top of Google searches and DieselEngineTrader.com will definitely be playing a major part in my advertising from now on.'

Aaron Lewin, Wisconsin, USA

'Sold 2 new Caterpillar C12 engines to a guy in Canada who found our engines through Diesel Engine Trader, thanks.'

Willem Cornelisse, W.K.M. Cornelisse Trading B.V. Holland

'We sold a German engine to a company in Norway and shipped it from the US to Dubai! DieselEngineTrader.com provides a truly global service.'

Rob Stone, Williams Detroit Diesel-Allison, Birmingham, Alabama, USA