CATEGORY LISTINGS > DETROIT > let's talk!! [ REFRESH ]

Thread Title: let's talk!! Created On Sunday January 27, 2008 19:58

piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday January 27, 2008 19:58 bypassing the speed limiting computor is very easy but i need more hp on a ddec3 drill out fitting on back of cyl head does help! But need to know if anyone has changed the placement of fuel temp sensor from inlet side of pump to outlet side of rear fitting fuel return to tank! computer will think fuel is hotter than it is holding injector open longer! think return fitting must be drilled 1/8 to not over heat the fuel in cyl and derate engine! let's talk ps this may apply to all electronic controled engines! ------------------------- want to help

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GoneFishen Posts: 1325 Joined: Jan 2007

Sunday January 27, 2008 23:32 Cute trick. Everyone knows the drilled out orfice hOWEVER: do not allow the fuel pressure to go BELOW 17 psi at idle. You will starve the engine for fuel. The drilling just allows cooler fuel to spray into the cylinder thus giving you 14 more hp. How do I know??? We have a chassis dyno at work. Will have to try the fuel temp trick some day. ------------------------- DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also. 1995 F250, 191k mi. Lost Wages, Nv

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Monday January 28, 2008 17:01 Is there a fuel temp at witch the comp will derate the engine ------------------------- want to help
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GoneFishen Posts: 1325 Joined: Jan 2007	Tuesday January 29, 2008 22:43 I thing you will see a yellow light on the dash informing you that you have high fuel temperature. I think [don't quote me] somewhere around 160*F. However a rule of thumb is not to exceed 150*F. Horsepower loss will occur. ------------------------- DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also. 1995 F250, 191k mi. Lost Wages, Nv
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Friday February 01, 2008 02:56 why will the computer hold the injector open longer if it thinks the fuel is hotter than it is? wont it still be looking at intake air temp. and fueling accordingly? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Friday February 01, 2008 19:42 as long as the computer thinks the fuel is hotter then it is it will hold the injector open longer than necesary! We are only talking millseconds but!! ------------------------- want to help
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Friday February 01, 2008 20:00 thanks for fuel limit as for temp. Now how about resistance of fuel temp switch! By placing a proper resistor in series with the circuit the engine will always be making extra hp! bypassing speed limiter is next! ------------------------- want to help
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 02, 2008 02:58 right but my question is WHY will it hold the injector open longer? i would think it will look at intake air temp. see it as either cold - dense air or hot air and adjust fuel according to it. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 02, 2008 03:33 have you tested this theory yet. i went back to my manual while ago and theres a section for troubleshooting a lack of power due to high fuel temp. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 02, 2008 07:45 Sorry as like air/ fuel is less dense when hot. gas engine 14.7 parts air 1 part gas perfect mix. diesel always have excess air as a rule. we are trying to fool the coumputer into thinking the fuel is hotter than it is! The comupter is also reading boost pressure but should allow some extra boost to a point! Barometric pressure is also check and match with fuel of a certain s/p. but by fooling fuel sensor injector will stay open longer because the computer is programed differant! Just got job trucking. Boss sat 2003 pete 65 mph. Bypassing that was easy! hp is a little more involed but not inpossible! Here a tip to take the color out of stove oil or furance oil to not pay road @@@! Its needs to be exposed to sun light. Lets talk!! ------------------------- want to help

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stump Posts: 814 Joined: Aug 2007	Saturday February 02, 2008 07:55 For series 60 power use a set of 5237014 injectors and a pittsburg power box. http://www.dieselinjection.net/ Edited: Saturday February 02, 2008 at 07:56 by stump
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 02, 2008 10:58 trying to keep it cheap company truck ------------------------- want to help
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 02, 2008 18:32 i still dont see how the computer thinking it has higher fuel temps would keep the inj open longer or make anymore power. if it thinks the fuel is hot, which would make it atomize better and say at operating temps. it would see air inlet is hot and spray less fuel. i mean even in automotive applications colder fuel yeilds more hp. so if the ecm thought the fuel was hotter than it is how would that make more hp? what engine model 60 is this on? you said programmed different. im assuming it still has the factory ecm on it? if so by you saying programmed different, you mean the hp has been reprogrammed. or do you know someone with capabilities of going in and changing it? if so what software or hardware are they reprogramming with? i mean the only thing we have at the shop to reprogram with is the detroit diesel software. and with that you cant change much? are yall using a mini diag? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 02, 2008 18:34 also stump are you running one of those pittsburg boxes on your truck? if so whats the power differnece. i glanced at that page but will have to read up on it more when i have a lil more time. if you have had experience with those boxes i would be interested in hearing what you have to say about them ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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stump Posts: 814 Joined: Aug 2007

Sunday February 03, 2008 08:00 I'm not running one yet.saving for it tho.I do know a felow that pulls tanks for Dana that runs one and he loves itHe runs on power level 3 usually and says it's more than he needs at that setting .He has his on a 600 HP cat.I asked him if he had ever had it all the way up he said only on a dyno and he was putting out over 850 hp at the drive tires. The neat thing about it is you can turn it off and everything goes back to stock.I also met a fellow that has a detroit series 60 he has the big injectors special computer program on a DDEC3 and a pitts burg box and he said it woulkd be hard for anyone to outpull him going up hills he runs his on power level 2 3 or 4 depending on what he doing.This fellows detroit is putting out around 700 hp and gets 6.2 to 6.4 MPG thats what I'm wanting.

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 10:31 The fuel temp plays a important part in engine hp. The coumputer has set programing! Change any sensor input=change! If fuel is in fuel pump is 90 F where the sensor is then injector is told by computer to stay open set time for certin hp! If you fool fuel sensor and it's tells computer fuel temp is 150 F but it is not and it still is 90 F the computer will hold injector open longer because at 150 F the fuel is less dense! Now more fuel in engine =more hp! Anyone with money can buy anything ! 3000.00 dollars for a computer bypass when a 5 dolllar varible resister does the same job!!! looks like i will be making these!! ------------------------- want to help

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 10:55 so piston have you tested this theory on a dyno? before and after? im still a little skeptical since the manual has a section on low power due to high fuel temps. and if you move it the computer doesnt know you changed its location it still is looking for its normal fuel temp then it sees out the back of the head temps. so now the computer thinks thats still before going through the head and now thinks out the head is even hotter than that? either way i would like to see some test results. i will try this one night at work if i have enough extra time on a truck. since we have a chassis dyno we will be able to see what the changes are. but piston you never said what yall were using to reprogram the computer with? what software? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Sunday February 03, 2008 11:05 whats your email again piston? i found your email in another post and i tried to email you but it didnt go through? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 11:44 No have not tried it!! Looking for input to see if it will work! Truck i am driving has brand new motor has to brokin in first! Than will try it over the road. Did bypass speed limiter no problem! Built signal genartor with electric motor speed sensor and reluctor wheel from output shaft of transmission. UnPlug wires from coumputer to single genartor plug electric motor in speedometer read 45 mph wether truck was moving or stopped. Speed limiter did not know how fast truck was going, therefor speed was wide open=107mph! Speed limiter is set at 67 mph. Good for warranty coumputer or speedo does not know how far truck went and no fault code or trace!!! EMAIL piston.060sbc@yahoo.com ------------------------- want to help

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 12:27 Ok here we go Speed is controlled by a signal generator built in to output shaft of gearbox!! A magnetic pickup and reulctor wheel on output shaft. You will need the following parts! A small electric motor “ heater motor” no more than 1000rpm A magnetic pickup and reulctor wheel for your truck! Mount reulctor wheel on motor and magnetic pickup close to wheel, Just like in gearbox ! Now leave stock one in place but remove wires from Stock one going to computer plug these into the magnet pickup wires that Come from the electric motor! When you turn on power to heater motor Your speedometer should read below your limiter set speed! The 4 wires that Come from the magnetic pickup only control speedometer and also distance For both computer and speed limiter! Mileage will be altered good for warranty! This signal generator will leave no trace!!!! In computer cods !!!! Email me at piston.060sbc@yahoo.com I will send photo of how to build it!! Till than 850,000 miles of interstate 85,000 state police happy speeding!!! ------------------------- want to help

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Sunday February 03, 2008 13:05 let,s all be carefull 400hp to 600hp probably ok 600hp to800hp be careful piston get hot at this level 800hp+ do not burn it up does not look good on Reasumay when looking for new job! Be careful piston is weak link!!! extra cooling may not cool pistons of fast enought=== new motor!!! ------------------------- want to help
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 20:05 so are you going to have before and after dyno test results with this when you get a chance to try it? you had said before the computer was programmed different, but you never answered my question. was it programmed without using detroit diesel software? did you have some other means by programming it or did you mean it was done by a distributor and just upgraded hp? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 03, 2008 21:09 No software up grade. stock ecm If plug into programer it will leave trace in ecm! no dyno just seat of the pants Will take a couple of weeks to try theroy out. Just trying to fool stock ecm for more power and looking for someone who is a expert in the field! Will talk and keep a open mind. there is someone local who is master craftman in progranding and reading all coumputer black box! Again in a couple will talk to him! ------------------------- want to help

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Sunday February 03, 2008 23:16 where are you located? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Monday February 04, 2008 02:28 but with that you have to not have the VSS anti tamper turned on in the ecm. if it is programmed ON then it will detect fewer pulses than the original wheel and log a fault and will then limit speed ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Monday February 04, 2008 06:00 ecm does not know it you are in hign gear or not!! in canada ------------------------- want to help
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catfreak Posts: 15 Joined: Dec 2007

Monday February 04, 2008 23:22 i guess i will have to explain the fuel temp issue.cold fuel has more energy than hot fuel. so if the ecm thinks the fuel is hot it will compensate. it does work we are doing it with cats and getting about 40 hp increase. it doesnt hold injecter open though, it changes fuel rate to injector and injection timing .and also someone said be careful 850hp burn up pistons. you will never burn a steel top piston wich most late model engines all have. cat engineers say you can hold pyrometer temp at 1500 deg all day and all you will do is deteriorate the exhaust manifold just a little info for you. by the way the piston info comes from Bruce mallinson (the pittsburgh power guy)

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Tuesday February 05, 2008 01:54 thanks for the more indepth explaination catfreak. but i still dont fully see how it will change injection timing. the rocker runs off the cam the ecm fires the inj based off crank and cam sensor so how does it change it? i dont know anything about cats so i didnt know if they were different or not. thats interesting though 40 hp difference. so to compensate for the hot fuel that it thinks it has is it trying to blow more boost? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Wednesday February 06, 2008 16:25 OK when pistons get hot the oil that is sprayed from underneet will coak thereby insulating the bottom of piston causeing the piston temp to rise to the point the radial tenson of rings to go away When this happens compression goes out the crankcase as blowby!! what I say may not be correct that we are talking As for vss ant switch how does it work! inj timming aldo mech the ecm still works the inj timming by soidnoid open and closing the fuel supply!! ------------------------- want to help

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Wednesday February 06, 2008 16:29 gone fishing must have gone trucking! ------------------------- want to help
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catfreak Posts: 15 Joined: Dec 2007

Friday February 22, 2008 23:58 sorry for long reply been truckin. Ok midnightcamaro if the ecm thinks the fuel is hot it will try to compensate by giving more fuel so if you dont have hot fuel but it thinks you do you get more fuel wahlah more hp. also the cam lobe and rockers have initial timing built in but your ecm and solinoids on inj control variable timing at different rpm elevation etc. Also you said ecm blowing more boost you have to have more fuel to get more boost you cant just get it. Kind of like bigger boom in cylinder makes more exhaust wich spins turbo faster making more boost. there are things that can change that like a turbo with huge air side and little exhaust side wich will create back pressure giving high boost pressure but a sick running engine unless it is wastegated. Hope this helps you Im not trying to correct you but you seem like you want to learn hope i didnt insult you ive been "hopping up" truck engines for years lots of trial and error mostly cats though. anyway good luck

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 23, 2008 00:58 oh by no means was did i take insult for that. i appreciate the help. ive been into drag racing since i started driving and have only messed with cars unitl the last 2.5 years i got into the diesel side industry. yea i see what your saying now more so. like you said all i know about these is what we are trained on they dont teach hopping trucks up at the company i work for so....by talking with yall is the only way to learn. unless i go by one and start playing around....haha i have enough projects right now. ok but heres a couple more questions. the ones youve tried this on were they egr or non egr. and did this have any effect on it? also what exhaust temps are this trucks running at? with load and no load? and last if its spraying more fuel seems that it would eventually start wearing on the liner. cause the hotter it gets the more fuel it will dump in there and say its been running wide open for awhile then you get to city traffic and its still thinking fuel is hot and dumping more then you get stuck at red lights sitting there wont it still be putting more fuel in at an idle also. i know not as much but just a question hey and thanks again man. i cant afford one of these trucks to be able to play around and see what i can do with them so i have to rely on yall, and any thoughts i may have on the way. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 23, 2008 01:22 hey also catfreak i sent you an email way back last time we were talking on here. did you ever get it? i cant even remember what it was about now, haha. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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GoneFishen Posts: 1325 Joined: Jan 2007

Saturday February 23, 2008 09:13 If the computer see's a hot fuel condition at idle it will not allow excessive fuel to enter the engine. Idle is what it is. Also the basic programming in the engine at full load is on an EGR engine will only allow the turbo to reach speds of 100K. Sometimes I have seen them at 110K. This is on the dyno at full load. Since we are on the subject, how much HP are we really talking here? The drilling the outlet on the non-egr engie only got 35 HP more. Why would we want to increase Hp and burn more fuel when really what we want: is to get to where we are going, burn LESS fuel, climb the hills faster, increase longivity of the engine. Less strain on the operator is also an improvement. Increasing the HP say 100 or more will only void the warranty and create shorter life span o the engine. We are talking longhaul now. But if you want to dragrace diesel's just add a touch of propane or nitrois for a thrill. I did see 1 truck with a propane setup on it. He actually wanted warranty on his seized turbo and wanted a factory discount on an engine overhaul. Better productivity from the engine, less failure and problems of the engine and attatched accessories, better operator productivity, better fuel effencency, are the hot items on todays market. Sure I know a trick to get instant HP from any truck, But what would be the better of the best. Blowing black smoke? Or trying to increase effencency of todays diesels say to a realistically mark of 8 MPG overall. ------------------------- DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also. 1995 F250, 191k mi. Lost Wages, Nv

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 23, 2008 14:25 thats my point of thinking also gonefishin. theres plenty aways around the fuel mileage issue its just what do you want more. i watched a show the other week where this weird engineer had designed 2 models of big trucks. (18 wheelers) and granted they were a bit ugly to look at but he had increased fuel economy by 50% just going with an extremely arodynamic body. that was without any engine modifications. but he never said what engine was in the one he built. on the other hand a guy on here wrote awhile back talking about his buddy with the pittsburg box on his truck making like 700-800 hp and getting 6.2 miles to the gallon. i mean if that is a true statement you cant beat that. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 23, 2008 16:33 at what point will the map sensor start limiting fuel! does anyone know how they work. ------------------------- want to help
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday February 23, 2008 16:41 were there is smoke there is wasted fuel. I also would like to see better mileage Is synticeoil worth the expence! ------------------------- want to help
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catfreak Posts: 15 Joined: Dec 2007

Saturday February 23, 2008 23:17 These are true statements about the pittsburgh power. Go to pittsburgh power.com and read Bruces articles about horsepower and fuel mileage. Big horsepower does not mean low mileage! I have a friend with a 435 cat he was getting 4.8 mpg after much conversation with me "mostly arguing" i convinced him to turn to 550. But Cat said it wont go 550 wrong parts. I got him in touch with a friend that could do it and now he is getting 6 to 6.5 he pulls a step deck hauling mostly oversized loads. By the way he also has the fuel temp resistor and i put one in his boost sensor so he gets instant response when he hits the throttle. This makes a little smoke when changing gears but i put a switch on his and mine for california running so the greenies wont get all teared up. If you can call Bruce and talk with him he is very smart and very helpful. He built a box for a guy in quebec that has a c15 putting out 2000 hp they race pulling 2 trailers with a total of 120000 lbs go 8th mile in like 12 seconds when he hits 3rd gear it pulls the left front tire about 3 ft i found some videos of it on utube but i dont remember how i found it i will try to find them and post it here so you guys can watch it is amazing

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 23, 2008 23:19 synthetic now thats big money. haha. i dont know man but the oil for the new engines is CJ-4 oil. and ive heard that it helps fuel mileage, but dont hold me to that like i said i just heard that, also the same person said they tried it in a car they had that was burning slight oil and it stopped after switching. and CJ-4 is backwards compatible if you deciede to try it, however your oil change intervals on the older stuff running CJ-4 is still the same. the newer engines that require that oil has a cleaner combustion process and is supposed to be able to run longer on it. piston are you wanting a diagram of the map/ boost sensor ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday February 23, 2008 23:27 hell yea catfreak if you find the video let me know i would love to see that. i can also agree with what you are saying about the truck being turned down so much that it actually hurt the fuel mileage. thats like the volumetric effeciency of an engine, naturally asparaited gas engines cant really acheive 100% VE but forced induction can do more when tuned right. so.... just because at WOT the truck has more power it may be burning more fuel at WOT but at a cruise and normal speeds if its set up right it will have better VE ini turn getting better mileage. hey catfreak did you get that email i sent you? also could you give some more info on what size resitor you were putting on the boost sensor? was it on the supply side or return side? ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Sunday February 24, 2008 07:17 A diagram would be a big help THANKS in advance!! ------------------------- want to help
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ctinnovation Posts: 168 Joined: Oct 2007

Sunday February 24, 2008 17:17 Hello :: This is an awsome topic you have started piston060sbc !!! Thanks for that !! I have tried most of the power tricks that were posted so far but the resistor thing i have heard of before without much explanation !! If there are anyone out there who nos what value and location as well,, it would b nice to no !! I also no the hole in the fuel fitting works, the location of the fuel temp sensor works,,oh ya,,(one eigth as long as that size maintains the minimum fuel pressure at idle like gonfishen says ) . A friend of mine had his drilled to that size(1/8 ) and when they put it on the dyno they found that was too much ( too big of hole in the fitting ) so they started replacing the fitting one size at a time going smaller each time untill the horse power went down and went back to the fitting that made the most power !! They acctually gained 50 more by reducing the hole size so dont count on 1/8 to be the best !! Going back a few posts when engines were making 6-800 hp, well thats awsome but there is one problem,,No matter who tells ya it dont hert them any if you treat them wright is full of KA-KA !!!!!!! If you take a 5-600 hp engine and set it to 4-500 hp it WILL out last the normal ware point and rebuild point by a long shot !! An engine that runs at factory settings will usually make it to the normal rebuild time but an engine set below factory settings will,9 out of 10 ten times last well beond that !! An engine that works hard all the time and tweeked up will not too often last !!! The harder it works the faster it wares !!! And thats a fact not an educated guess !!! If you can stand ( and 9out of 10 cant !! ) the power loss by turning the hp down you will extend the life of youre engine by quite a bit !! We all ,,,,,,and i mean all,, love power but if you want to play you WILL have to pay !!

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Sunday February 24, 2008 17:49 but also to note, that in a lot of cases its not the power that kills them. its the owner or the truck not being kept up with service like it should. and yes to a point higher hp will make the engine have a shorter life, but it depends on what were talking about. im going to just use cars as an example since i have more knowledge of them and have had fewer yrs experience with diesels. also note that our shop is a certified repair center and we dont ever get to tinker around with turning trucks up. but with cars if you take a car with 200hp and a car with 300, 400, 500 hp it will last just as long if built right and taken care of like it needs to be. and now that turbos are so big in racing its possible to have far more power and equal life. technology has came so far its not like a 396 in a 69 camaro anymore. i mean there are thermal coatings for internal parts that helps engine life, different bearing coatings, and thats just the basics. there are tricks with everything now. a lot of it boils down to how the engine is taken care of and how much care was taken when building it. i would imagine as tuff as a 60 is that you could bump up the power a decent amount and still have a good life span out of the engine. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Monday February 25, 2008 14:14 A way around drilling that brass fitting is to drill and tap it out to fit a holley carb jet they come in all sizes and are buck a piece. As for the resistor!! find the fuel temp sensor measure the resistance across the terminals at 70 F, Go to the radio shack or eletronitc store, Get a varible resitor (potmeter) set it at this resistance wire it in cab .Mine is hidden as a dash light dimmer!!! and go for a drive. set it by watching exhaust temp and boost and heat oil and water! When back at home base just place the wires back on sensor. As long as the code light does not come on keep increaseing the resistance. happy HP Be careful out there.Go safe!!! till later ------------------------- want to help

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Monday February 25, 2008 14:16 Has anyone bypassed the speed limiter yet! ------------------------- want to help
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Tuesday February 26, 2008 00:33 hey piston i got the wiring diagram you were looking for. but to save me from scanning to many pieces of paper let me know what engine you are wanting it for. ddec 3/4 or ddec 5? if its 3 or 4 let me know if its egr or not. if your not sure bought all that just get me the model #. later man ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Tuesday February 26, 2008 08:59 4ddec non egr. will be out for a couple of days! ------------------------- want to help
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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008	Tuesday February 26, 2008 12:23 aight man im about to leave for work myself, but i will email it tonight hopefully if i dont forget. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life
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catfreak Posts: 15 Joined: Dec 2007

Tuesday February 26, 2008 23:50 hey midnight camaro i got that email been in and out working and remodeling house so time is hard to come by. I havent messed with detroits yet but a buddy bought a 95 pete with one were going to tinker with it soon ddec 3 i will tell you what i figure out. On a cat the resistor i use for boost sensor is 150 ohm just cut green wire on sensor and splice it in. This will tell ecm it has a min of 8 lbs boost you will have instant response no hp gain though. On fuel temp i use a 15k resistor i will try to email you a diagram how to wire it. Some have 2 wire some are 3 wire. low hp last longer than big hp that is ka ka its all in your right foot!!!!!! Had a 93 pete with b model cat puttin 750 to the ground went 1.3 million got 6 mpg when it went down it just lost lower liner o ring got water in oil. Anyway it may be this weekend befor i email you but i will.

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midnightcamaro Posts: 38 Joined: Jan 2008

Friday February 29, 2008 00:44 i agree with ya catfreak, theres so many diff. variables that you cant say hp kills an engine. i mean hp is heat, and yes heat (too much) will kill an engine but in most cases its a different cause for a ruined engine. i mean until you start talking hp numbers from a top fuel or NHRA car then yea they dont last long. also piston i havent forgoten about you i will email you the diagram probably this weekend. im sorry man its took a lil while i havent been on here the last couple of days. between work i havent hardly had time to eat and sleep. ------------------------- diesel technician by occupation, drag racer and car enthusiast for life

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday March 01, 2008 13:38 sorry it,s A 3 ddec non egr! ------------------------- want to help
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008

Saturday March 01, 2008 14:08 I read somewere that those small craters at the bottom of the cly liner are caused by implosion of water and steel liner! it can ripe out metal away from base of liner witch is why silca content is so importan! diesel burn fuel slowly when motor is hot but may detonate like gas engine. the fuel may not light the first time but will light on the comp stroke next time! causeing rinning of cly liner = holes and leaks! or maybe explode on the way down! the inplosion pressure = over 90,000 psi!! killing o rings! moral of story plug the block heater in year around with temp to keep block at 125 F mim. ------------------------- want to help

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Tuesday March 04, 2008 17:52 anyone with new ideas to up power!!! ------------------------- want to help
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DoctorDDC Posts: 11 Joined: Jan 2007

Thursday March 06, 2008 09:12 Several things as discussed, drilling the orifice, shimming the fuel pump bypass spring, install fuel temp sensor in oil gallery or water jacket, seperate air inlet filter for air compressor, wrapping/coating exhaust to trap heat for turbo, wrapping underhood air intake and charge air piping to prevent heat gain, dual air cleaners, bigger final exhaust. Some are non-epa compliant, but I don't think you guys have issue with that. Most will improve efficiency/economy if driven correctly. Any shift you can eliminate will help with fuel consumption. Tire pressure and smaller gap between trailer and tractor should help wind drag issues. If you use less power moving wind it will create surplus to do work. Chicken wing or Slide on the roof will help also. I have complied alot of ideas that work well over the 22 years with Series 60. The reality is most guys hop them up and mash on them constantly, then complain when they can't get fuel mileage or they cook a set of cylinders prematurely. In summary, If you crank one up with all the latest tricks, then go out and buy a Texas bumper, you should surrender and driver for Big R or Walmart. ------------------------- "The Doctor is in"

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Friday March 07, 2008 13:28 ok hp is imporant but fuel millage is inportant as is long life cant have it all but let,s try! spray painting inlet pipe on outside with white paint to stop heat soke on inlet side. still need help on map sensor witch wire does what! ------------------------- want to help
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DoctorDDC Posts: 11 Joined: Jan 2007

Thursday March 13, 2008 13:56 On the Turbo Boost Sensor: # 452 (Black) is Sensor Return # 432 (Green)is Sensor Ground # 416 (Gray) Voltage Supply ( 5 volt ) 452 is the one you would modify, if you choose to do so. Any fuel temp above 140 F is not good. Performance begins to decline anywhere above 90 F. Tricking the fuel temp sensor will allow pulse width to increase = more squirt ------------------------- "The Doctor is in"

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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Friday March 14, 2008 13:00 I will tell you how it goes thanks!!! ------------------------- want to help
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Saturday March 15, 2008 13:44 #452 less voltage is more boost or is more voltage more boost!! ------------------------- want to help
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ctinnovation Posts: 168 Joined: Oct 2007	Monday March 17, 2008 17:43 A resistor is used to reduce the flow of current so I would have to say that less volts is more boost !! For example if you have a 3 volt led and you want to use a 12 volt battery to light it you have to use a resistor so it wont burn out the led. Hope that helps!!
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GoneFishen Posts: 1325 Joined: Jan 2007	Monday March 17, 2008 19:01 All the sensors are 3.5 to 6V range. The 12V are the coolant level, Jake brake solenoids. The fan circuit uses a relay to actuate the fan on and off. ------------------------- DDA tech for 30 years,all 2 cycle,series 60,50 mbe also. 1995 F250, 191k mi. Lost Wages, Nv
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piston060sbc Posts: 44 Joined: Jan 2008	Tuesday March 18, 2008 11:44 ok let's me ask another way When the engine builds boost does the voltage go up or down on signal wire! ------------------------- want to help
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ctinnovation Posts: 168 Joined: Oct 2007

Tuesday March 18, 2008 19:20 That can b checked with an ohm meter on the signal wire by checking the reading at idol and then bumping up the rpm to say 1200 and checking the reading again. It would depend on how the computer reads the signal.Just as u asked does the signal at low current indacate it has lots of boost or a little boost. You have to check at idol then check it again at a higher rpm (boost) to determine that,,, it could go either way . Take care

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jimmy99ways Posts: 2 Joined: Jan 2009

Saturday February 07, 2009 19:28 Hay gone fishing!! At work the guy who runs the shop turnd the trucks down to 68mph. And i can get the hand set to turn it back, The head repair guy says that he changed the pass word and he could not get back in! I told him about this backdoor pass word you was talking about? and i dont think he knows what im talking about!! And hes right.... you know. Well he will let me use the handset to get back in but I dont know how to find the back door? it plugs in to a plug by the seat and i have never tryed to do it, The place i work buys old snider trucks. and most of them are junky. Well all of them are!! I want to run about 72. that way i wont be seting in the left lane looking dumm trying to pass a 62 mph truck. plus it dont pull wort a crap shuting doun at the bottom of the hill.. I have worked there for 20years. and I did drive a 85+ truck. I think i get worse mileage now than befor. Heck that say 62 is best.. Now thats dumm! I know if thay drop to that a lot of guys would quit.. including me Thank you!!!

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phantom309 Posts: 14 Joined: Feb 2009

Thursday February 12, 2009 16:36 This an interesting topic,. i,ve a ddec 2 thats a temperamental old thing,. finiicky,. starts sometimes not others, i,ve talked with gone fishen about it,. but i,m still having grief,. runs cold at idle when it,s cold out yada yada,. But i digress,. I,ve always noticed that after a half hour or so of working hard,.(pulling heavy 135000lb gross) the boost would always drop off and the motor feel lazy,. no codes,. no cel, but drop from 32psi, down to under 25 (weird gauge hard to be exact) What is the correct size for the hole in the return fitting? (I,ve heard talk of a factory TSB) as this seems to be exactly what my problem is,. and if it,s a hot fuel problem i,d like to fix it,. it "black" fuels too,. but doesn't seem to bother it,. rear support housing has been leaking good for the past 4 yrs,. i have the compressor getting air from the intake pipe instead of boosted air,. I,d like to get some more power out of it,. i,m very familiar with old B models,. but that knowledge doesn't translate well to ddec technology,.thanks Nick be great if one of the real ddec techs on here would share some knowledge on exactly how to turn the motor up,. with the proper caveats added of course,. ------------------------- If i could have what i want,. i wouldn't want what i have.

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crusherrr Posts: 15 Joined: Feb 2009

Friday February 13, 2009 00:17 Not sure if it would work on your engine, but my old DDEC II 425 it did work, it was done at an actual Detroit dealer here in Canada, and according to the dyno, we gained about 35 HP to the ground by moving that sensor, drilling the restrictor, and chaning the MAP sensor to one off a GM car, although I forget the model. Not sure if it would work on a III and never tried it on my IV, but drilling the restrictor on the IV did work. Have not done anything of any kind to either of my V's ------------------------- Doug Morrison

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crusherrr Posts: 15 Joined: Feb 2009

Friday February 13, 2009 00:20 Phantom 309, Sounds like it could be a hot fuel problem. McKevitt's used to have a few issues with that in Northern Ontario, to the point where the fuel would get hot enough that if they pulled in low on fuel and shut the trucks down, they would actually vapor lock. They had some sort of coolers mounted and it seemed to correct the problem somewhat. Keep in mind, the more fuel in the tank, the cooler it will tend to be. Does your problem get worse as the fuel level drops, such as a lot worse at a quarter tank or less versus full? ------------------------- Doug Morrison Edited: Friday February 13, 2009 at 00:22 by crusherrr

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