Replying to Thread:

3116 won't start

Created On Sunday 12, August, 2012 7:26 PM by flyers18

Please enter your login information to post.
Username:
Password:
I want to stay logged in.

Message Title:

Message Text:

http

https

ftp

mail

hr

highlight

LI Quote

HTML code is not permitted. Special symbols permit some HTML functionality.

flyers18

Posts: 3
Joined: Aug 2012

Sunday August 12, 2012 19:26

Hello to all and thank you for this site. I will try not to be a nuisance here and I will always try to read through the threads first before asking questions. I just purchased a 92 GMC Topkick with a 3116 in it that has not been ran in 4 years. The previous owner did not like diesel engines and when this one lost throttle response, he pulled it into his buddies business and it sat there until he died. I bought this wrecker and another one from his partner for a great deal with a buddy and I chose the deisel. Now want to get it home without the huge tow bill. I am a half-ass mechanic, but have never messed with diesel engines out of fear of them. I got batteries, checked fluids, checked fuses, checked the fuel in the one tank and cut off fuel from the other rusted tank, turned the engine over with a breaker bar, pulled the air filter and checked the turbocharger for movement or seizing. Then I cranked and got it to fire with some ether shots but it would not run on it's own. Tried quite a few times (half a can), but decided to call it a day and not damage the starter with all the cranking.

Tomorrow I am going to replace the fuel filter, replace fuel line from tank to filter, get a in-line primer bulb, crack fuel lines while pumping fuel. What I need to know is if I should add any kerosene or another additive for algae or do anything else to start with that maybe is causing the no-start. I have a fuel pressure tester,but no attachments for a diesel to check pressure (which I don't think I have.)

Also the Cat # on the injector is s/n 00105131-A, group pt.#4P5736 02, Lot #AMBAC-2Y.
Engine serial #2BK18053

I don't know if that matters to any of you, but I am trying to give you everything I've got so far and I really want to drive this home tomorrow after bleeding the brakes and replacing a brake line and starting it! I have to say that after getting it to kick off today and finding out that it wasn't seized was very cool and nothing like working on gasoline engines, big blocks included.

Thanks again in advance if any of you have the time to help with imput on this engine. Steve

-------------------------
I am new to diesels, but I am not new to learning, and I know sometimes you have to be humble about your problems.

Quote

Top

Bottom

JoeZ

Posts: 938
Joined: Dec 2008

Monday August 13, 2012 15:18

The very first thing to check would be the shut-down solenoid located on the left side of the engine. It should have 12 volts and click when the key is turned on. These trucks have had many fuel line problems as well as the many check valves in the fuel system to give you problems. After you determine the engine shut-down is getting power and working, you would need to check fuel pressure. There is a plug on the secondary filter where you can check it. As long as it has some pressure....at least 15 to 20 lbs cranking, it should start. You could have a frozen rack from sitting also. Are you holding the pedal down when you try to start it? Putting air pressure to the tank will help prime the system. You can remove the return line from the engine at the tank and apply a few bursts of compressed air there, but don't over do it.....an exploding tank of diesel fuel makes a big mess and costs too much.

-------------------------
One of the last 2 Stroke mechanics left.
44 years in the business and worked on everything from 53 series to 149 series. Winding it down now...time to move on.

Quote

Top

Bottom

flyers18

Posts: 3
Joined: Aug 2012

Tuesday August 14, 2012 06:06
------------------------- I am new to diesels, but I am not new to learning, and I know sometimes you have to be humble about your problems.

Quote

Top

Bottom

flyers18

Posts: 3
Joined: Aug 2012

Tuesday August 14, 2012 06:12

Whoops...Joe thanks for the response and the advice. I got it running yesterday after I pulled the return line and pumped fuel through the system with the primer bulb that i bought. I have to say that it was awesome!! It sounds great and I'm going to let it run longer today while I work on the brakes. Do these things need to reseat the rings like a gas engine after sitting for a long time? I have a little bit of white smoke yesterday when I first was letting it idle. Not sure if that was the injector cups you guys talk about or just from sitting. I got my repair manual for it today. Is there anything else I should be doing first so I don't mess anything up on this engine? Thanks again for your help! Steve

-------------------------
I am new to diesels, but I am not new to learning, and I know sometimes you have to be humble about your problems.

Quote

Top

Bottom

goldstorect

Posts: 2
Joined: Feb 2013

Thursday February 14, 2013 18:04

Please Help Me:
I have starting problem on 1997 gmc 5500 cat 3116
Ok the truck has 88k miles
The truck has been sitting for over a year when i purchased this truck and drove it home it seemed to be starting fine without any smoke.

I kind of wish now that if its not broke leave it alone, the truck came with a full tank of old fuel and i decided that i should drain the fuel and replace the fuel filter and water separator, i replaced an empty tank with about 15 gallons of fresh fuel and i also filled up both filters with fresh fuel, the truck was very difficult to start and when it finally started it filled the parking lot with white smoke, after idling for about 5 minutes the smoke went away but then minutes later the truck stalled out, i removed the filter next to engine and it was 3/4 empty i filled it up with fuel and also removed water separator filter and topped that one off thinking i had air in system. I did this four times and each time the truck kept stalling after idling for about 15 minutes. this time i decided that when i got it running i would loosen the top bolt with O ring on top of filter housing and bingo a lot of bubbles came out, i repeated this numerous times and finally seemed like i was getting a steady flow of fuel and the truck stayed running for about 4 hours. I thought i had solved the air problem.

This morning after truck sat all night i tried to start and was very difficult starting and when it finally started once again it filled the parking lot with white smoke and after about 10 or 15 minutes the truck shut down, i removed the fuel filter next to block and it was 3/4 empty i once again filled it and started motor and i loosened bleeder bolt and bubbles came out and then a steady flow of fuel and truck idled for about two hours and i shut it down.

I am sure that in the morning i am going to have the same problem could someone please tell me what i did wrong and what to look for next to resolve this problem.

Quote

Top

Bottom

JoeZ

Posts: 938
Joined: Dec 2008

Thursday February 14, 2013 19:15

The plastic fuel lines are a problem on these trucks. Also, there are many check valves that can stick. Fill the tank and check the return line for bubbles when it is running. I see no point to let it idle so long. It needs to be run at higher RPM for a while to insure all the air is bled out. 15 gallons isn't all that much fuel....harder to draw than a full tank....

-------------------------
One of the last 2 Stroke mechanics left.
44 years in the business and worked on everything from 53 series to 149 series. Winding it down now...time to move on.

Quote

Top

Bottom

Dickey

Posts: 8
Joined: Jan 2013

Thursday February 14, 2013 20:25

I've been fooling with a couple 3116's last couple of months and on 1,gmc I had similar experience , I could get it fired up and would run 20 min or so just as I thought it was warned up then it would die.Check filter and be half full .After days of trouble shooting I came up with a bad fuel sylenoid ,it was working until motor got warm and then it would kill engine , I found this out by leaving a test light in the hot wire connection on sylenoid as motor got warm test light would get dim then go out as motor died. I would then test same wire on other side of plug and it was still hot.we changed sylenoid and its never happened again I don't know..... Didn't seem possible I thought maybe sylenoid was old and as it got warm it was grounding out???? Anyway it worked for me. Just thought I'd throw that at you

Quote

Top

Bottom

JoeZ

Posts: 938
Joined: Dec 2008

Thursday February 14, 2013 21:50
The solenoid wouldn't be making the fuel filters air-bound. ------------------------- One of the last 2 Stroke mechanics left. 44 years in the business and worked on everything from 53 series to 149 series. Winding it down now...time to move on.

Quote

Top

Bottom

goldstorect

Posts: 2
Joined: Feb 2013

Friday February 15, 2013 04:29
Thank you for your kind responses your an asset to the diesel community!

Quote

Top

Bottom

[ CATEGORY LISTINGS : THREADS ]

Customer Testimonials

'It took at least 4 weeks before we got our first inquiries for the 28 engines we listed - 3 months on we are making 3 to 4 sales per month! We're really pleased and I like the feature that shows how many views our engines get.'

Pete Melhuish, Northwest Diesel Parts, Portland, Oregon, USA

'Within 3 weeks of listing we sold 2 Detroit Crankshafts & Blocks. Customer calls have increased by over 25% and we now have many new customers! You cannot beat the value, exposure, and professionalism of DieselEngineTrader.com - they are great folks!'

Mark Talacki, Jobbers Warehouse Inc, Philadelphia, USA

'Listed a Perkins T6.354 on DieselEngineTrader and sold it after 5 month. With a listing fee of $5.00 per month and no commission, it was much cheaper and more effective than the magazine we also used.'

Chris Weeks, Old Forge Lake Cruises, New York, USA

3116 won't start

Customer Testimonials

Newsletter