Replying to Thread:

calorifier for marine Gardner 6LYT - help required

Created On Sunday 20, October, 2002 4:47 AM by tomjones

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[q]:confused; I have a 60 ft (18.3m) steel hulled boat that is driven by 2 Gardner engines (6LYT). The boat has a hot water system that is propane gas powered. I want to fit a calorifier and do away with the gas heaters. My query is - exactly where on the Gardner engine, I'll use the starboard one, will I take off the hot water supply and where will it return to the cooling system. Any help would be appreciated[/q]

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Sunday October 20, 2002 04:47

I have a 60 ft (18.3m) steel hulled boat that is driven by 2 Gardner engines (6LYT). The boat has a hot water system that is propane gas powered. I want to fit a calorifier and do away with the gas heaters.

My query is - exactly where on the Gardner engine, I'll use the starboard one, will I take off the hot water supply and where will it return to the cooling system.

Any help would be appreciated

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badges65

Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Monday October 21, 2002 01:06
are the exhaust manifolds freshwater cooled?? don ------------------------- http://invertedvboats.741.com/

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Monday October 21, 2002 13:29
the engine has a freshwater heat exchanger cooling system that is in turn cooled by raw seawater. The exhaust sytem used to be a dry exhaust but 10 yrs ago was altered to enable the sea water to exit with the exhaust gasses at the waterline. I don't know if that helps? I do have digital photos of the engine which if of assistance I can forward, if such facilities exist on this site.

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badges65

Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Monday October 21, 2002 16:25

Hi,
i expect/hope the saltwater is entering the exhaust system at the outlet end of the exhaust manifold!!??
if they are still dry exhaust manifolds the next best place to look is for a plug in the fresh water system just before the thermostat,
take the hot side from there and return the water from the water heater to a point close to the input side of the freshwater circulating pump.
would have to see a photo of the exhaust system to see if another method could be used you can get my email address from my site.
don

-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Tuesday October 22, 2002 14:52
Don, thanks for the help to date I have posted photos of the engine on my website - saves you having to waste time downloading from an email you can view them at www.tomjonescruising.com/engine.htm If these views don't help - let me know where to point the camera and I can post some more !! Doug

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badges65

Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Tuesday October 22, 2002 17:24

Hi Tom,
good pic's what program you using to insert pics have little tools on the enlargements??
well.
looks like pic 5 but cannot identity the thermostat but it should be in that area, you need to take off before the thermostat enters the heatexchanger..
in pic 12 that pump behind that red cable looks like the fresh water pump and the long pipe coming down from the right i suspect from the bottom of the heatexchanger check should be coldest water, you would inject into that pipe at an angle towards the pump the return from heater.
the other alternative is to remove some lagging just before where the salt water is injected into the exhaust system and wrap a coil of soft copper pipe around the exhaust manifold and relag and make a continuous circuit through the heater, the hot to cold water movement would be done by hotwater chasing cold water around the pipe.. if that doesnt heat enough a small pump could be inserted to help the flow.
if you can get a good pic of the thermostat may be a bit more help, but once you have identified it just have to tap into it before it .
don

-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Wednesday October 23, 2002 07:16
Don, thanks for that - it sounds as if even an idiot like myslef could follow that !! I'll take another shot - looking for the thermostat and let you know when it's posted.

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tomjones

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Wednesday October 23, 2002 07:44
Forgot to mention : the photos were taken with a Kodak DC265 and uploaded onto the site via Dreamweaver3.

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Wednesday October 23, 2002 12:39
I've posted a few more pics on my site that should hopefully enable you to make a final decision on this matter. they can be found on www.tomjonescruising.com/engine.htm

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badges65

Posts: 132
Joined: Jul 2002

Wednesday October 23, 2002 15:38

Hi Tom,
in pic showing temp sender and looks like a glass thermostat ??
that should be the area you need to take off your hot water if there are no plug fittings beside either of those you will have to modify one of them.. i would put a "T" in where the sender unit is and make sure the top of the 'T' is a bigger diameter than where the sender screws into the housing and use reducers to bring it back to the size of the sender just to make sure there is plenty of water around the temp sender unit. then take off the other side of the 'T' for your water heater .
in pic 12 that pump should be driven off the injector pump???
and the pipe coming down at an angle from the bottom of heatexchanger to it is the cooled water to the block..
you may have to remove that pipe and put a fitting in close to the pump but at an angle looking towards the pump so there is no disruption of the flow from the heatexchanger and good sucking from the pump.
hope this helps.
dont quite gell when you said that sender unit connected to the manifold may be a shot directly above may clarify, suspect part of the exhaust manifold may be fresh water cooled??
don

-------------------------
http://invertedvboats.741.com/

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tomjones

Posts: 7
Joined: Oct 2002

Thursday October 24, 2002 04:27
Don, many thanks for that. It will be a few weeks before I put the calorifier in and I'll let you know how I get on.

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